Meet Elise Magistro, founder of Luretík, the award winning olive oil made in the Santa Ynez Valley. Next Saturday she will be teaching an Olive Oil 101 Class at the domecíl Studio on Saturday August 17th. It is always inspiring to meet someone following their passion towards excellence.
We asked Elise a few questions about her love of olive oil and how she came to it.We sat down with her to ask her a few questions about what brought her to find her olive oil passion and what she loves about it.
Where did your passion for olive oil come from?
While I’ve always felt deeply connected to my family’s roots and culinary traditions (Sicilian on my father’s side and French Basque on my mother’s) it was not until I first went to Italy decades ago that olive oil made a real and lasting impression on me. At the student mensa (the Italian university cafeteria) olive oil was always the last stop in the food line; endless quantities available to drizzle or pour on every dish that was served. This in and of itself wasn’t new.
What did stand out to those of us who had grown up in Italian American homes was the quality of the olive oil. That was the revelation. None of us knew much, but we could certainly discern that the olive oil we were getting in the bustling mensa was far superior to anything back home (even if our kitchens were stocked with imported oil that was supposedly a cut above).
Looking back, I’m sure that oil in the university cafeteria wasn’t nearly as high quality as I remember, nonetheless, it was delicious and that was where it all started. Of course, I had little idea of how much time, work, and education would be necessary to produce an oil similar to the Italian oils I so loved. But the learning process has been immensely rewarding, both because of the wonderful individuals here and in Italy who have helped me along the way and for the international recognition our oils have received.
What do you think is the biggest misconception people have about olive oil?
While there are all sorts of misconceptions, I would say that the biggest relates to consumer confusion about what a quality olive oil is and what it should taste like. High quality extra virgin oil was simply not available in the US before the mid to late 1990’s when interest in the Mediterranean diet began to pick up. Up to that point, the few olive oils on supermarket aisles - if extra virgin at all - were relatively tasteless at best, oxidized or even rancid at worst. As a result, many if not most people came to identify this bland, non-descript flavor as the defining “taste” of olive oil. Furthermore, misleading labeling terminology was – and continues to be – part of broader marketing strategies that further confuse the consumer who wants only to make an informed choice.
Conscientious producers, big or small, need to help educate consumers so that they are more confident. The public should also know that a quality extra virgin has three major characteristics, ideally all in balance: fruitiness, bitterness and pepperiness. While these characteristics may be less pronounced in some oils and more pronounced in others, all will taste fresh. Extra virgin olive oils have a wide variety of vegetal and herbaceous aromas and flavors. This freshness is the key to any well-crafted extra-virgin and will be evident the moment you open the bottle, so experiment, trust your nose and palate and enjoy!
How would you compare Californian olive oil to European olive oil?
It really isn’t at all a question of geography in that both California and European olive oils (Italian, Spanish, Greek, French) can be very good – or not very good at all. While Europe and other areas in the Mediterranean have been making olive oil far longer than we have, California has made enormous strides over the last quarter century in producing high quality olive oils. The UC Davis Olive Center California has offered coursework for producers and the public for over two decades, and California oils are fast gaining international recognition. A select number of California extra virgin oils have also won awards in prestigious competitions abroad. One of the most satisfying aspects of making olive oil is being part of this broader international community made up of producers, millers, and educators who are collaborating and contributing to knowledge in the field.
What is it about Santa Barbara County that makes it a good place to produce olive oil?
Perfect growing conditions, great soils and a temperate Mediterranean climate. Olive trees are very resilient, but they are susceptible to excessive cold and freezes. With the Santa Ynez Valley’s relatively mild winters and warm summers, our Italian varieties have adapted beautifully, with some trees producing prodigiously within 2-3 years of planting. Somewhat remarkable when one considers that the average time for an olive tree to come into production is 4-5 years.
What’s your favorite recipe using olive oil?
That is difficult to answer since extra virgin olive oil is an indispensable ingredient in most everything I prepare. A well-made oil will enhance the flavors of any dish. In summer, for example, few things compare to tomatoes picked warm out of the garden, sprinkled with a bit of fresh basil, salt, pepper then dressed with a generous pour of flavorful olive oil. The addition of fresh mozzarella or burrata (the classic “insalata caprese”) provides a bit more substance to this quintessential summer salad in which a fruity extra virgin is key. Another example would be a simple, freshly baked focaccia as it beautifully showcases the flavor profile of a well-crafted oil.
What’s a surprise use for olive oil?
Olive oil in homemade ice cream and sorbets was a taste revelation for me. The addition of a delicate or even medium fruity oil gives a silky texture and depth of richness to the mix that is really beyond delicious. And it actually comes together quite easily in no time at all.
What’s your favorite activity in the Santa Ynez Valley?
Cycling in Ballard Canyon is great, but nothing comes close to walking the olive grove at sunset. The sense of calm and near total quiet at the end of a busy day is a daily reminder of how fortunate I am to live in a place of such incomparable beauty.